sábado, 11 de março de 2017

The two faces of Kraków


























Cracóvia é uma das maiores cidades da Polónia. A sua história ficou marcada pelas horrendas atrocidades cometidas contra os Direitos Humanos, nas suas ruas e gueto, durante a 2ª Guerra Mundial, bem como pela sua proximidade a um dos maiores campos de trabalho e exterminação - Auschwitz-Birkenau. Efetivamente, quem passa por Cracóvia, dificilmente consegue se desligar dos terrores do Holocausto que atingiu todo o mundo, mas que ali teve um específico impacto. Nos dias de hoje é ainda possível passar por alguns vestígios, monumentos e herança desta guerra, que foi brutalmente trágica, sendo por isso mesmo, importante não esquecer as atrocidades e os crimes que os homens foram capazes de cometer, uma vez que a História tem tendência para de alguma forma se repetir.

Kraków is one of the biggest cities in Poland. Its history was marked by the horrendous atrocities made against Human Rights in its streets and ghetto, during World War II, as well as its proximity to one of the largest labor and extermination camp, Auschwitz-Birkenau. Actually, anyone who passes by Kraków, can hardly get rid of the Holocaust terrors that hit the whole world, but which had a specific impact there. Nowadays, it is still possible to see some traces, monuments and legacy of this war, which was brutally tragic, and it is therefore important to not forget the atrocities and crimes that men were capable of making, since History has a tendency to somehow repeat itself.
A piece of an old newspaper (photo by Littlelle)
O gueto de Cracóvia, construído em 1941 na zona de Podgórze, acolheu entre 15 000 a 20 000 pessoas que foram expulsas de Cracóvia e de outras cidades durante a 2ª Guerra Mundial. Dele resta hoje parte do muro que o dividia da restante cidade, bem como alguns edifícios importantes para os seus residentes, como uma farmácia (Apteka “Pod Orlem” Pharmacy Under the Eagle), onde o movimento de resistência trocava algumas informações, ou o hospital. No local junto ao antigo portão de entrada, na praça principal hoje conhecida como Praça dos Mártires do Gueto, existe um monumento composto por cadeiras vazias, para recordar a destruição das casas e pertences das pessoas que aí viveram.

Kraków ghetto, was built in 1941 at Podgórze, and it sheltered between 15 000 to 20 000 people who were banned from Kraków and from other cities during the World War II. From it remain now part of the wall that divided it from the rest of the city, as well as some important buildings for its residents, as a pharmacy (Apteka "Pod Orlem" Pharmacy Under the Eagle), where the resistance movement exchanged some information, or the hospital. Next to the old entrance gate, at the main square of the guetto, today known as Martyrs of the Ghetto Square, there’s a monument composed by empty chairs, to remember the destruction of the houses and belongings from the people who lived there.
Ghetto wall (photo by Littlelle)
Old important pharmacy in the ghetto (photo by Littlelle)
Ghetto entrance (photo by Littlelle)
Martyrs of the Ghetto Square (photo by Littlelle)
Perto desta zona ficam alguns museus, entre eles, um museu dedicado à história de Oskar Schindler, retratada no filme “A Lista de Schindler” de Steven Spielberg (1993). A fábrica de utensílios de cozinha, onde Schindler empregou cerca de 1000 judeus, encontra-se transformada num museu interativo. Este museu para além de contar “o como foi”, apresenta várias fotografias, cartas, filmes e objetos da altura da 2ª Grande Guerra. Gostei bastante da visita. A Polónia surpreendeu-me pela qualidade dos seus museus. Não são meramente descritivos dos acontecimentos históricos, mas integram várias estratégias interativas que conseguem envolver e sensibilizar os visitantes. Para não falar que os preços de entrada são bastante acessíveis, assim a História de todos chega a todos.

Not far from this zone, there are some museums, among them, a museum dedicated to Oskar Schindler story, featured in Schindler's List film directed by Steven Spielberg (1993). The factory of kitchen utensils, where Schindler employed around 1000 Jews, is today transformed into a interactive museum. This museum besides telling “how it happened” features several photos, letters, films and objects from World War II. I liked it very much. Poland surprised me with the quality of its museums. They are not merely descriptive of historical events, but they integrate several interactive strategies that can engage and sensitize visitors. Not to talk about the access prices that were pretty affordable, this way, the History of all can reach everyone.
Old photos at Schindler's factory museum (photo by Littlelle)
Roman Polanski was one of the many children of the Holocaust (photo by Littlelle)
A drawing about World War II at Schindler's factory museum (photo by Littlelle)
A toy from a child at Schindler's factory museum (photo by Littlelle)
Como seria de esperar, Cracóvia apresenta um tradicional bairro judaico – Kazimierz, com algumas Sinagogas, restaurantes, museus, cemitérios, entre outros espaços.

As it would be expected, Kraków has a traditional Jewish quarter, named Kazimierz, featuring some synagogues, restaurants, museums, cemeteries, among other spaces.
Synagogue museum (photo by Littlelle)
Kraków Jewish Quarter (photo by Littlelle)
Cemetery at the Jewish Quarter (photo by Littlelle)
Cemetery at the Jewish Quarter (photo by Littlelle)
Quem quiser tirar um dia para ir conhecer os campos de concentração, poderá fazê-lo de transportes públicos. Auschwitz (Oświęcim em polaco) fica a cerca de 70  km, pouco mais de uma hora de autocarro. Foi uma experiência bastante enriquecedora, mas que não pretendo repetir… Esta experiência ficará para uma próxima publicação.

Those who would like to take of a day to know the concentration camps, can make it by public transportations. Auschwitz (Oświęcim in Polish) is about 70 km from Kraków, just over an hour by bus. It was a very enriching experience, but I do not intend to repeat it ... This experience will be for an upcoming post.
Birkenau extermination camp (photo by Littlelle)
Para além desta associação incontornável à 2ª Guerra Mundial, Cracóvia mostra que se recuperou e oferece também toda uma outra dinâmica e perspectiva bastante mais agradável. O coração da cidade centra-se na Rynek Główny, a principal praça da cidade que é assumida como a maior praça medieval da Europa Central, tendo sido considerada Património Mundial da Unesco desde 1978. Nesta praça situa-se a Basílica de Santa Maria que apresenta duas torres assimétricas, a torre da Câmara Municipal e o primeiro centro comercial do mundo (Cloth Hall), sendo que os turcos dizem o mesmo relativamente ao Grande Bazar de Istambul. Nos dias em que o sol mostra a cara, é bastante agradável ficar nas esplanadas em redor desta praça a desfrutar do ambiente envolvente. Podes jantar nesta zona em plena Rynek Główny por cerca de 7€. Muito barato, tendo em conta a localização, o conforto e a qualidade da refeição. Gostei bastante da gastronomia, comi por exemplo sopa de cogumelos e pierogies, uma espécie de raviolis ou rissóis consoante escolhas comer cozido ou frito.

Beyond this unavoidable association with World War II, Krakow shows that it has recovered and offers a whole other dynamic and perspective that is much more pleasant. The heart of the city focuses at Rynek Główny, the main square of the city which is the largest medieval square in Central Europe, having been considered as an UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978. At this main square there are St. Mary’s Basilica, the Town Hall Tower and the Cloth Hall, the first shopping mall in the world, although Turkish people say the same concerning to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. On sunny days, it is quite pleasant to stay on the terraces around this square to enjoy the surrounding environment. You can dine in this area in the center of Rynek Główny for about 7€. Very cheap considering the location, comfort and quality of the meal. Polish gastronomy was quite pleasant, for instance I ate soup of mushrooms and pierogies, a kind of ravioli or patties depending if you choose to eat them cooked or fried.
The Cloth Hall at the main square (photo by Littlelle)
St. Mary’s Basilica (photo by Littlelle)
Kraków has a good way of life (photo by Littlelle)
Soup of mushrooms? Yes, it is! (photo by Littlelle)
Cracóvia movimenta-se ao redor desta praça, onde se situam as principais ruas comerciais como a rua Floriańska. Em torno desta zona histórica existem também vários clubes de Jazz com música ao vivo. Nunca tinha visto uma concentração tão grande em termos de oferta de música Jazz. Se quiseres assistir ao concerto, existe um valor associado ao bilhete. Caso contrário, poderás entrar e ficar numa outra sala do bar, onde apesar de não veres o concerto, ouves a música e pagas apenas o que consumires. Neste caso terás de saborear a música jazz obrigatoriamente com vodka, bebida típica da Polónia. Nas cidades polacas encontras frequentemente lojas de venda de bebidas alcoólicas com vodkas de todos os sabores possíveis e imaginários, banana, ananás, cereja, avelã (quase que sabe a nutella)… por cerca de 1,5€ (correspondente em zlótis, a moeda local). Suponho que seja para aquecer nos dias mais gélidos, ou não… Para quem não gosta de jazz, a cidade oferece outras opções em termos de vida nocturna, como bares e discotecas. Dado que a cidade possui a segunda universidade mais antiga da Europa Central (Universidade Jagiellońian), existem muitos jovens pelas ruas e as pessoas são simpáticas.

Kraków moves around this main square, where the main commercial streets are located, as the Floriańska Street. Around this historic area there are also several Jazz clubs with live music. I had never seen such concentration in terms of jazz music. If you want to attend the concert, there is a value associated with the ticket. Otherwise, you can enter and stay in another room of the bar, where despite not seeing the concert, you can listen to the music and pay only for what you consume. In this case you must have to taste the jazz music with vodka, a typical drink from Poland. In polish Polish cities you usually find liquor shops that sell vodkas of all possible and imaginary flavors, banana, pineapple, cherry, hazelnut (it taste almost as nutella) ... for about 1.5 € (corresponding value in zlotys, the local currency). I suppose it's to warm up on the coldest days or maybe not ... For those who don’t like jazz music, the city offers another options in terms of night life, as bars or discos. Given this city has the second oldest university in Central Europe (Jagiellońian University), there are a lot of young people in the streets and they are nice in general.
Floriańska Street (photo by Littlelle)
Rynek Główny by night (photo by Littlelle)
Jazz Club (photo by Littlelle)
Vodka plus Jazz (photo by Littlelle)
Uma vez que a cidade não é muito grande, podes fazer as deslocações a pé ou se preferires poupar as pernas, o tram também pode ser uma boa opção. Para ficares a conhecer a cidade de uma forma panorâmica, podes dar uma volta de charrete. Mais uma vez os preços são bastante acessíveis. No passeio pela cidade podes visitar várias igrejas, sendo esta a cidade natal do papa João Paulo II, sinagogas e o castelo Wawel. O castelo fica no topo de uma colina e permite visitar várias atrações como a catedral ou o museu, onde se encontra o famoso quadro de Leonardo da Vinci da Dama como Arminho.

Since the city isn’t that big, you can explore it by walk or if you prefer to spare your legs, the tram can also be a good option. To get to know the city in a panoramic way, you can take a ride by carriage. Once again the prices are quite affordable. On the city tour you can visit several churches, once Kraków is the hometown of Pope John Paul II, synagogues and the Wawel castle. This castle is located on the top of a hill and there beyond the castle, you can also visit other attractions, such as the Wawel Cathedral or the museum, where is exposed one of Leonardo da Vinci’s famous pieces of art, the Lady with an Ermine. 
Carriage in the old town center (photo by Littlelle)
Krakow old town (photo by Littlelle)
St.Peter and Paul Church in Krakow (photo by Littlelle)
Wawel Castle (photo by Littlelle)
Wawel Cathedral (photo by Littlelle)

Wawel Castle (photo by Littlelle)

Wawel Castle Gardens (photo by Littlelle)
Statue of the Lady with an Ermine (photo by Littlelle)
Dependendo do tempo que tiveres, podes sempre optar apenas por deambular pelas ruas da cidade e saborear a cultura e estilo de vida de uma forma polaca. 

Depending on the time you can dispose, you can always choose just wandering the streets of the city and savoring the culture and the lifestyle in a Polish way. 
Stare Miasto (photo by Littlelle)
Colorful streets of the Old Town (photo by Littlelle)
St. Florian's Gate (photo by Littlelle)
Kraków Barbican (photo by Littlelle)

Na zdrowie!!

sábado, 4 de março de 2017

Women in perspective


























A figura feminina, bem como o seu papel na sociedade, foram-se alterando de século para século. Desde a beleza rechonchuda e recatada à revolta boémia do cancan, da nobreza à burguesia, de mãe de família à mulher independente. Apesar de durante muito tempo lhe terem sido negados os seus direitos na sociedade, a mulher sempre teve e terá um papel fundamental em qualquer que seja o contexto ou período histórico. Exemplos disso são: no antigo Egipto Cleópatra, uma verdadeira mulher de armas, o poder figurativo das deusas gregas como Diana ou Atena, a guerreira Joana D’Arc, rainhas de peso, como Catarina a Grande, Sissi ou Maria Antonieta, ou as mais recentes personalidades culturais e políticas como Simone de Beauvoir, Indira Gandhi ou Frida Kahlo. Todos demonstraram à sua maneira a poderosa influência que as mulheres podem ter na educação, cultura, politica ou arte.

The female figure as well as her role in society has changed century by century. From the chubby and demure beauty to the cancan bohemian uprising, from the nobility to the bourgeoisie, from the mother of the family to the independent woman. Although long time their rights had been denied in society, women always were and will be fundamental, whatever the context and the history period are. Good examples of that are: in the Ancient Egypt Cleopatra, a true strong woman, the figurative power of Greek goddess as Diane or Athene, the warrior Joana D’Arc, the strong queens as Catherine the Great, Sissi or Marie Antoinette, or the most recent cultural and political personalities as Simone de Beauvoir, Indira Gandhi or Frida Kahlo. All of them had demonstrated the powerful influence that women can have in education, culture, politics or art.



Portrait of Catherine the Great at Hermitage in St Petersburg (photo by Littlelle)
Fulang-Chang and I by Frida Kahlo (1937) at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Por isso e uma vez que este blog, apesar de ser dirigido ao público em geral, apresenta uma visão particularmente feminina, para assinalar o Dia da Mulher, deixo ficar alguns retratos de mulheres pelos olhos de vários artistas. Não nos devemos esquecer que todas nós temos qualidades que podem marcar a diferença ao nosso redor.

Therefore and because this blog, although is for all people in general, particularly features a female vision, to highlight the Women’s Day, I leave you with some portraits of women by the eyes of several artists. We should not forget that all of us have qualities that can make the difference around us.
Portrait de femme dit la Belle Ferronnière (1499)
by Leonardo da Vinci at Musée du Louvre in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

The Virgin adoring the Host (1852) by Jean Ingres at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Woman ironing (1869) by Edgar Degas at Neue Pinakothek in Munich (photo by Littlelle)

The Cradle (1872) by Berthe Morisot at Musée d'Orsay in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

Head of girl (1876) by Renoir at Neue Pinakothek in Munich (photo by Littlelle)

Unknown Lady (1883) by Kramskoy at Tretyakov State Gallery in Moscow (photo by Littlelle)

Madame X (1884) by John Singer Sargent at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Model making mischief (1885) by Raimundo Madrazo y Garreta
at Carmen Thyssen Museum in Málaga (photo by Littlelle)

Woman with Parasol (1886) by Monet at Musée d'Orsay in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

Portrait of Baroness Ikskul von Hildenbandt (1889) by Repin
at Tretyakov State Gallery in Moscow (photo by Littlelle)

Jungle tales (1895) by James Jebusa Shannon at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Repose (1895) by John White Alexander at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Femme de profil - Madame Lucy (1896) by Toulouse-Lautrec
at Musée d'Orsay in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

Mademoiselle Plume rouge (1896) by Thomas Austen Brown
at Neue Pinakothek in Munich (photo by Littlelle)

Portrait of a young girl (1899) by Mary Cassatt at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Fleur de Lis (1900) by Robert Reid at MET in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Woman in Blue (1901) by Picasso at Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid (photo by Littlelle)

Margaret Stonborough-Wittgenstein (1905) by Klimt
at Neue Pinakothek in Munich (photo by Littlelle)

Woman in a chemise (1906) by André Derain
at Statens Museum for Kunst in Copenhagen (photo by Littlelle)

Hope II (1908) by Gustav Klimt at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Mme Kupka among Verticals (1911) by Kupka at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Adele Bloch-Baeur II (1912) by Klimt at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Lady in a Park (1914) by August Macke at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Head of a Woman (1915) by Amedeo Modigliani
at Museo del Novecento in Milan (photo by Littlelle)

 Bella au col blanc (1917) by Marc Chagall at Centre Pompidou in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

Halbakt II (1926) by Alexander Kanoldt at Pinakothek der Moderne in Munich (photo by Littlelle) 

The Gathering (1929) by Ángeles Santos at Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid (photo by Littlelle)


Woman ironing (1930) by Roberto Balbuena at Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya in Barcelona (photo by Littlelle)

Jeune fille en vert (1930) by Tamara de Lempicka at Centre Pompidou in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

The Eternally Obvious (1930) by René Magritte at Fondazione Prada in Milan (photo by Littlelle)

Portrait of Gala (1935) by Salvador Dali at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)


The Frame (1938) by Frida Kahlo at Centre Pompidou in Málaga (photo by Littlelle)

Seated woman (1941) by Picasso at Pinakothek der Moderne in Munich (photo by Littlelle)


Los Angeles Angels (1961) by William Copley at Fondazione Prada in Milan (photo by Littlelle)

Gold Marilyn Monroe (1962) by Andy Warhol
 at MOMA in New York (photo by Littlelle)

Made in Japan - La grande odalisque (1964) by Martial Raysse
at Centre Pompidou in Paris (photo by Littlelle)

Carmen en Málaga (2011) by Mercedes Lasarte
at Carmen Thyssen Museum in Málaga (photo by Littlelle)

Um destes retratos poderá vir a ser o teu… 

One day one of these portraits may be yours…